Classic, hedonist, Russian rock star, baggy chic, ski warrior, cartoon-boy, uniforms or British neo-romantic? In Milano, where they just ended the presentation of the men’s fall winter 2008/09, the man is a vain magician of the masculine wardrobe.
“A cashmere suit worn with the same ease of a pair of jeans. A smartness that enjoys every pleasure of classic, English menswear with an immediacy that changes it to the point of reinvention”. The concept of PR has flourished in Milan where the rain rules with the fashion in town on this polaric Saturday in January. This first comment of Ennio Capasa for Costume National which starts their collection for men FW08/09 with a cast of models in silhouetting ski/teddy boy modification of the code for English wardrobe and Scottish prints. The style of Costume National a good change even if just masquerade because of the stylist that gave this impression though the quality of the brand and the impeccable cut always there!
“People are confused. Too many fashion propositions, too many trends…”. Dolce & Gabbana goes back to their Sicilian roots with a collection of earth-colours such as brown, cognac, whisky, grey and black. The collection is very wearable and seems to have been designed with the help of a computer-program that has picked what the duo has sold best in the previous seasons. One also senses that the duo has focused on its Russian client, the only one that still visits the boutiques in Milano, beaten by a crisis never seen before, with a collection where the fur is everywhere, hidden in the lining of a jacket or just put on a pant cuff.
“Capturing the contrast between the simplicity and complexity of the great British Northern painter L.S Lowry; the collection is nostalgic with rich elegant textures, effortless silhouettes and faded somber hues”. Season after season, Burberry’s designer Christopher Bailey is reinventing Burberry’s DNA. In an autumn décor covered in dead leaves, the designer has presented a collection, from time to time neo-romantic, sometimes deliciously vintage in the tones of earth, plum and grey.
Always young, always the skinniest, the models that do the runway for certain brands seem no older than 17 which is the case at Jill Sander. Raf Simmons surprised for first time with a spotless collection for Jill Sanders where the purity of young models was used as a painting for the silhouettes of honorable first class easterners. Everything very beautiful, very arty but who wants to dress in anti-sexy clothes? When Versace shows, the show must go on! That’s right, it starts with an hour delay because the VIP is late. Beyonce and Jay-Z arrive finally and the flashes go off. On the stage, the models more alive, pallet of colors in purple, mixed shades of blue with black. Allegra Versace, the young heir of the Versace Empire, is in the first row. If there is a brand that brings back a certain bubbling glamour it is beautiful and good Versace!
Cappuccino delights and small-talks are on the program this Sunday morning at Bottega Veneta, waiting to discover the new collection. Once again to the sound track of Michel Gaubert where you can recognize the voice of Rufus Wainwright, Bottega Veneta embark the gallery with a collection exploring of the vain looks of uniform, where pants are much wider, with a higher rise: “this season we started thinking about the connection between what a man does and what he wears”, explains Tomas Maier, the designer for Bottega Veneta. Probably one of the 5 most beautiful collections this week.
An old industrial factory look works as the décor of the new collection of Neil Barrett baptizing Ski Warrior. Above all you discover an impressive variation of black, from matt to shiny. The pant is rather close to the body and tight ski overall combined with ultra chic shoes. Is the devil really dressed in Prada? Anyway, hovering at the presentation of Miuccia Prada in the form of a pick bag a skilled journalist flying with his bag containing all his professional materials. On stage, Miucca is having fun reinventing the masculine wardrobe with a collection almost cartoonesque or cummerbund little dress like. No jackets, no fur here: “the winter almost does not exist anymore” according to Miuccia Prada.
“We live and lock our self up inside” For his second collection for Bally, Briant Atwood seems to be inspired by the celebrity waiting for the press people. A little ethno-chic, a little L.A. bohemian a la Brad Pitt: the Bally man is at time sexy, sometimes casual-ethno-chic. Note the superb Bally boot, a must for next winter! Everyone Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci seems to have directed there collection toward the eastern countries in the birth of Russian Rock. Inspired by the looks of the singer Eugene Hutz of the group Gogol Bordello, Frida Giannini for Gucci finds its roots in the theatric and avant-guard culture of post-Revolution Russia. A brilliant collection but an impression of Gucci déjà-vu…
This is a new post by David Report contributor Olivier Rohrbach.