Eyola Fashion House was set up in 2008 after Eyola’s Masters in Milan and working under Alexander McQueen. Crowned as one of Vogue Italia’s up and coming talents last year, Eyola has been going from strength to strength.

Eyola has just launched E-Boutique where you can now shop Eyola’s designs in an unusual exclusive shopping format much like an auction.

E-Boutique is time-limited - on sale for only 8 short weeks. With each piece either a one-off or limited to a maximum run of eight in a particular fabric or colour. Every 8 weeks, a new set of designs will replace the designs still standing. I would like to introduce you to the first powerful yet feminine one-off and limited edition dresses to make a grand appearance at E-Boutique. From over 60 countries on the shipping list, bespoke and made to order service on request to complimentary signature Eyola box with each purchase; E-Boutique is the definition of E-luxury.

Precise and conceptual, the first womenswear collection designed by Masataka Matsumura for Giuliano Fujiwara leaves no space for casualness: it looks deeply rooted in  the ancient Japanese tradition of origami, whose key elements are interpreted through a contemporary and personal vision. Expert cross contaminations between eastern sensitivity and western culture turn this first ladies collection into the full and coherent expression of the brand’s evolution, as well as of the young creative director’s personal training.

The collection is extremely focused: it includes 20 ready to wear items , 7 shoes styles, 9 bags styles and 8 jewellery pieces.

As in the origami, the volumes of each garment are unusual, with extremely structured cuts and pleats that help defining them with precision and geometric rigour: at times strips of fabric line the skirts, strips of leather extend the shoes silhouette, as if they still had to be folded to turn into the actual items women will wear. Proportions meet and cross, in a harmonious alternation of opposites, tiny skirts are worn over extra long jumpers, whose hems sneak out of the skirts that, in this way, look like belts at a first glimpse. The focus is on the shoulders, important, geometric, often enhanced thanks to the addition of pleats.

Knitwear is super soft and feminine, thus contrasting openly with the rigorous silhouettes of the outerwear. In the materials range, technical fabrics with a thick and consistent texture, wool crêpre, leather and a very light silk/cashmere blend are outstanding.

Accessories, following an unusual creative path, are not perceived as a mere complement, but rather as  central elements of utmost importance, around which the whole womenswear project rotates: the origami concept blooms in the bags collection and develops through the shoes collection, where pleats and overlappings give shape and structure to each and every item, and includes also the jewellery collection, where metal is folded to contain extra bright and extra big crystals.

The colour palette is essential, and perfectly in tune with the brand’s philosophy: only black and dusty pink for the clothing line, for the accessories black is mixed with a light shade of grey and a warm champagne tone.

From manga to anime to music, Japanese soft power, also known as “Cool Japan,” has captured the world’s attention. In the fashion world as well, the profound creativity of Japanese products has great potential on the international market. As a way of broadcasting Japanese fashion culture to the rest of the world, the government supports the Japan Fashion Week in Tokyo (JFW). Now in addition, tokyoeye has been established to further strengthen Japanese fashion businesses in the world’s fashion capitals.

tokyoeye is a project for supporting Japanese fashion brands in their expansion outside Japan. Taking “Cool Japan” and filtering it through a Tokyo perspective, several fresh, modern Japanese fashion brands have been selected for exhibition in either Paris or Shanghai. In cooperation with local showrooms and press, they will have the opportunity to appeal directly to buyers, press, and consumers.

The goal is to support brands with potential that are planning to extend their business overseas.

Together with a showroom in Paris and industry press, creators will have the opportunity to show their collections directly to professional buyers, to the public and to the press. Several brands already successful in Japan have been chosen by the selection committee.

Two commercial events are scheduled : the “corner” of Colette from February 15th to 27th, 2010 and TRANOÏ SHOWROOM from March 4th to 11th, 2010.

The White Briefs is a brand new range of compelling everyday items with vital generosity and a honest sensitivity. After trying to find a well-balanced product in the landscape of aestheticism, function and understated commercialism the founders of The White Briefs found nothing. “The White Briefs vision is clear, to meet the customers with a new range of compelling everyday items,” says Peter Simonsson, one of the founders and Creative Director of The White Briefs. “The hybridism of underwear and casual wear makes sense in our own way. We aim to invigorate the perception of the business.”

The White Briefs takes social and environmental responsibility and delivers a high quality product in all aspects. Organic farming is a production method that not only respects human health and the environment, but is also a model of sustainable development, that improves the quality of the resources of local communities, helping them face global competition.

“For me it all started with the wish to create the ultimate pair of briefs, pure, white and in a high quality organic cotton.” says Peter Simonsson. “It’s also the reason why we developed “other briefs” such as: T-shirts, baggy jersey pants, kimonos, long singlet and panties.” And more is to be expected.

The White Briefs’ HQ is located in the surroundings of the breathtaking landscape of Österlen, an area from which the founder and creative director Peter Simonsson also origins. For The White Briefs, humanity, quality and 360 degrees of new thinking solutions are the key ingredients. The White Briefs uses ICEA certificated fabrics.

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Starting with 2006, the Romanian avant-garde fashion label Rozalb de Mura, is rediscovering fresh moments from the past, that he sets in utterly contemporary contexts, unflinchingly mixing real and imaginary characters, coolly playing with time and space. Moreover, the Rozalb de Mura label is developing as a multidisciplinary platform that commissions and supports unexpected and exciting collaborations with visual artists, musicians and writers

Outstanding performers such as Patrick Wolf, Roisin Murphy or Mikhail Karikis wear its sophisticated mixture of masculine and feminine cuts; influential magazines the likes of Dazed and Confused, CRASH, Double or British Vogue feature its sharp style and intriguing stories. It’s no wonder young label Rozalb de Mura is gaining a cult status in Europe. After a series of events in Vienna, Berlin, Seoul and Beijing, the last three seasons saw Rozalb de Mura’s collections within the prestigious OnIOff, London Fashion Week.

If you are in Stockholm, The Romanian Cultural Institute has a “Double Game” talk about cutting-edge fashion label Rozalb de Mura and interior design duo Liste Noire and their special interest in fashion storytelling and emotional interior design. The event will take place on October 22, 6.30 PM at Skeppsbron 20 in Stockholm.

Bohento is the newborn catching everyone’s eye in the Spanish fashion scene. Those attending their presentation back in February 2008, during the opening of El EGO de Cibeles - the young side of Madrid’s Catwalk - were astonished by a new flair for dramatic simplicity and an architectonic balance of texture, volume and shape. “A tearing eye on the shallowness of life” that takes a step beyond, leaving behind old-fashioned Spanish stereotypes to channel atemporal quality to enlighten daily looks for a long while.

The brand’s seams hide two promesas: Pablo de la Torre and Cuca Ferrá. Artists prior to seamstresses, as unveiled by their mixed backgrounds: Pablo “leverages his fashion degree upon an education on architecture and graphic design (…)” while Cuca “draws inspiration from Fine Arts to her love for leather (a material in which she specialized her fashion training on)”

Both are multifaceted diamonds that combine Bohento with solo endeavors. Pablo focuses on haute-couture that span from hats to dresses for selected customers (sold under his own name) while Cuca investigates new posibilities, techniques and materials while engraving and teaching painting.

Delicacy is a charm on their visual branding. The pale shaded typographic logo is seasoned with equally minimalistic photography that recreates a girl next door in an empty space with a turned off  Tv. The lack of bespoken luxury, explicit erotism and pretentiousness speaks loud to the subconscient - could be you, it’s your story to tell - so the clothes become the person’s accessory rather than prevailing its identity.

This turns the unsustainable “so last year” into a rational “so me”. It’s still to see it the message doubles success, during their consecutive opening of next EGO’s catwalk, S/S 2010 to be held next September.

This is a post by the David Report contributor Claudia Muñiz García.

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The Acne Jeans a/w 09 ready-to-wear men and women pre collection is available from today in their online shop.

The cultural clash between East and West during World War I in the Middle East inspires Les Hommes for Spring-Summer 2010. The movie that better depicts this theme and the epic atmosphere of that period is LAWRENCE OF ARABIA: the almost mystic experience of entering the desert and being transformed and deeply affected by the influence of local tribes – yet holding strongly onto western colonial traditions – gives shape to this collection.

Outfits are a perfectly balanced synthesis of clothes stolen from tribal cultures and key items from a western male wardrobe. Trousers volumes – super wide – are enhanced by fluid, shiny fabrics. Jackets and light over coats are oversized, and rich in military details, whereas materials recall ethnic accents. A series of T-shirts – as well as the 3 women’s silhouettes hitting the runway -  are reminiscent of  the traditional wrapping technique of Beduin tribes. The uniforms of western troops inspire the new suits, with their extra slim proportions, as well as the colour palette, that seems to include uncountable shades of beige.

Silhouettes are always monochrome, in respect of the military “dress code”; shades go from sand to taupe, with touches of black, to recreate, even through colours, the desert environment. Unusual combinations of materials: silk, soft suede and extra light nylon are used for finishings and details. Modern materials combined with ethnic or historical inspirations contribute to define the “modern nostalgic” mood that embodies Les Hommes style.

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For Spring-Summer 2010 Masataka Matsumura – Giuliano Fujiwara’s creative director - draws inspiration from current time; in reaction to crisis and global recession the key word, around which the new collection is conceived, is “concreteness”. The overall image, therefore, will be strong and masculine, with several military details, and extremely clean.

Silhouettes are geometric, rigorous at times, but more often details and colours break them. Zips, cuts, multiple layers and slashes are all used to create a dynamic effect. Neutral or dark shades – such as pearl grey, taupe, black – are mixed with a flow of strong, primary colours: acid yellow, cherry red, electric blue.

Proportions often go oversize: T-shirts – at times worn inside-out  - jackets and shorts, a key item of the collection, they all look loose and comfortable. Materials are extremely light - even at touch - and natural, but they often undergo innovative technological treatments.

Once again accessories play a relevant role. Sneakers in bright colours that paint also the thick rubber soles, sporty nubuk laced up shoes and ankle boots and shiny black leather laced up styles, to add a touch of formal elegance to casual outfits.

From Saturday 17th to Tuesday 20th of January 2009, nearly 90 shows and presentations were presented in Milan.

Due to economic slowdown men’s fashion for winter 2009-10 shows a certain classicism as indicated by the great comeback for conservative colors such as burgundy, gray, black and bottle green. 

Among the many shows and presentations viewed, here is my Top 5!

Saturday 12.00, COSTUME NATIONAL

Keywords: “I DESIRE TO COMBINE SOFTNESS, SOBRIETY AND RELAXATION. I THINK WE NEED IT RIGHT NOW” Ennio Capasa, designer of Costume National

Music : TV On The Radio

Saturday 14.00, JIL SANDER

Keywords : “I WANTED TO PRESENT SOMETHING POWERFUL”, Raf Simmons, designer of Jil Sander

Music : selections of Portishead’s new album

Saturday 17.00, LES HOMMES

Keywords: « THE COLLECTION DRAWS ITS INSPIRATION FROM EARLY RENNISSANCE PAINTINGS, IN PARTICULAR FROM PORTRAITS OF YOUNG MEN ON THE BATTLE FIELD, AND FROM THE ANDROGYNOUS AND INNOCENT BEAUTY THE EXPRESS” Notte & Vandebosch, designers of Les Hommes Homme

Music : selection by Michel Gaubert

Sunday 09.00, BOTTEGA VENETA

Keywords : “WHEN YOUR OWN INITIALS ARE ENOUGH”,

Tomas Maier, designer of Bottega Veneta

Music : country inspired covers versions of tracks such “Pump Up The Jam”, selected by Michel Gaubert

Monday 09.00, ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA

Keywords: “BOURGEOIS REVOLUTION. THE SOBRIETY OF THE COLOURS MUD, ASPHALT GREY, EBONY AND BLACK ALTENATES WITH THE SOPHISTICATED COMBINATION OF CAMEL AND FLESH COLORS”

Music: selection by Steve Mackey

This is a post by the David Report contributor Olivier Rohrbach.

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