Whitecapri bags

David Carlson, 2 June, 2008

Whitecapri is a new label for bags and accessories from Berlin. The first collection Matchpoint is an homage to the great movie “Match Point”.

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Categories: Design, Fashion, Lifestyle, Products

Is it a skirt… or is it a pair of trousers

Kristina Dryza, 14 April, 2008

A graduate of Goldsmiths College in London, fashion designer Anna Antoniades’ work focuses on the relationship between body, garment and space. She distresses the form to accentuate the silhouette through excessive folds, bold pleats and voluptuous draping.

Antoniades’ work has been seen in London - four shows in London Fashion Week - Bilbao and Tokyo, where she recently presented a static installation at Ebisu Park Café. The installation was of one pattern playing on the theme of colour, shape and space. Displayed in an atypical way, it distorted viewers’ perception of what they were looking at i.e. what was displayed looked like a skirt, but was in fact, a pair of trousers.

Antoniades’ is of Greek origin, and many of her garments take influence from ancient Greece. Her signature design trait though is multifunction garments: a cape that transforms into a skirt, a skirt into a top. Her work is an on-going exploration of multi-functionality as she challenges the excesses of life through her designs.

“I love the fact that people can change an item I designed for them,” the fashion designer says. “That they can react to the fabric, to their personal environment, and for the garment then to take on another form.”

Antoniades sees her designs as both desirable and sustainable. As she says, “My garments last a long time. You don’t need to throw them away when you tire of them – you just change them into a new shape.”

Form shifting – what a great way to approach the issue of sustainability (as well as boredom!).

[Photos courtesy of Anna Antoniades]

This is post by David Report contributor Kristina Dryza.

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Categories: Design, Fashion, Innovation

Comme des Garçons in collaboration with H&M

David Carlson, 3 April, 2008

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Comme des Garçons’ founder and head designer Rei Kawakubo will create this autumn’s guest designer collection at H&M. Rei Kawakubo, famous and admired for her creativity and artistry, will design a women’s and a men’s collection, with some pieces for children too. Accessories and an exclusive unisex fragrance will also be included in the collection.

“I have always been interested in the balance between creation and business. It is a dilemma, although for me creation has always been the first priority. It is a fascinating challenge to work with H&M since it is a chance to take the dilemma to its extreme, and try to solve it”, says Rei Kawakubo, Comme des Garçons.

The world launch of the collection will be at the opening of H&M’s second store in Tokyo, Japan, in the beginning of November. Launch date for other H&M markets will be a few days later.

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The Gentleman’s Jeans

David Carlson, 12 March, 2008

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The Gentleman’s Jeans is a pair of blue, elegant jeans, created for a mature man of work and leisure. The jeans has been designed by Gert Jonkers and Jop van Bennekom from Fantastic Man together with Creative Director Jonny Johansson at Acne, in a style that has been seen before on our fathers and uncles, but now updated and made wonderful for today. The Gentleman’s Jeans is available in a limited edition at Colette in Paris, in selected Acne Studios and at Acne Online Store.

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Categories: Fashion, Lifestyle, Products

Milan marathon

Olivier Rohrbach, 21 January, 2008

Classic, hedonist, Russian rock star, baggy chic, ski warrior, cartoon-boy, uniforms or British neo-romantic? In Milano, where they just ended the presentation of the men’s fall winter 2008/09, the man is a vain magician of the masculine wardrobe.

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“A cashmere suit worn with the same ease of a pair of jeans. A smartness that enjoys every pleasure of classic, English menswear with an immediacy that changes it to the point of reinvention”. The concept of PR has flourished in Milan where the rain rules with the fashion in town on this polaric Saturday in January. This first comment of Ennio Capasa for Costume National which starts their collection for men FW08/09 with a cast of models in silhouetting ski/teddy boy modification of the code for English wardrobe and Scottish prints. The style of Costume National a good change even if just masquerade because of the stylist that gave this impression though the quality of the brand and the impeccable cut always there!

“People are confused. Too many fashion propositions, too many trends…”. Dolce & Gabbana goes back to their Sicilian roots with a collection of earth-colours such as brown, cognac, whisky, grey and black. The collection is very wearable and seems to have been designed with the help of a computer-program that has picked what the duo has sold best in the previous seasons. One also senses that the duo has focused on its Russian client, the only one that still visits the boutiques in Milano, beaten by a crisis never seen before, with a collection where the fur is everywhere, hidden in the lining of a jacket or just put on a pant cuff.

“Capturing the contrast between the simplicity and complexity of the great British Northern painter L.S Lowry; the collection is nostalgic with rich elegant textures, effortless silhouettes and faded somber hues”. Season after season, Burberry’s designer Christopher Bailey is reinventing Burberry’s DNA. In an autumn décor covered in dead leaves, the designer has presented a collection, from time to time neo-romantic, sometimes deliciously vintage in the tones of earth, plum and grey.

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Always young, always the skinniest, the models that do the runway for certain brands seem no older than 17 which is the case at Jill Sander. Raf Simmons surprised for first time with a spotless collection for Jill Sanders where the purity of young models was used as a painting for the silhouettes of honorable first class easterners. Everything very beautiful, very arty but who wants to dress in anti-sexy clothes? When Versace shows, the show must go on! That’s right, it starts with an hour delay because the VIP is late. Beyonce and Jay-Z arrive finally and the flashes go off. On the stage, the models more alive, pallet of colors in purple, mixed shades of blue with black. Allegra Versace, the young heir of the Versace Empire, is in the first row. If there is a brand that brings back a certain bubbling glamour it is beautiful and good Versace!

Cappuccino delights and small-talks are on the program this Sunday morning at Bottega Veneta, waiting to discover the new collection. Once again to the sound track of Michel Gaubert where you can recognize the voice of Rufus Wainwright, Bottega Veneta embark the gallery with a collection exploring of the vain looks of uniform, where pants are much wider, with a higher rise: “this season we started thinking about the connection between what a man does and what he wears”, explains Tomas Maier, the designer for Bottega Veneta. Probably one of the 5 most beautiful collections this week.

An old industrial factory look works as the décor of the new collection of Neil Barrett baptizing Ski Warrior. Above all you discover an impressive variation of black, from matt to shiny. The pant is rather close to the body and tight ski overall combined with ultra chic shoes. Is the devil really dressed in Prada? Anyway, hovering at the presentation of Miuccia Prada in the form of a pick bag a skilled journalist flying with his bag containing all his professional materials. On stage, Miucca is having fun reinventing the masculine wardrobe with a collection almost cartoonesque or cummerbund little dress like. No jackets, no fur here: “the winter almost does not exist anymore” according to Miuccia Prada.

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“We live and lock our self up inside” For his second collection for Bally, Briant Atwood seems to be inspired by the celebrity waiting for the press people. A little ethno-chic, a little L.A. bohemian a la Brad Pitt: the Bally man is at time sexy, sometimes casual-ethno-chic. Note the superb Bally boot, a must for next winter! Everyone Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci seems to have directed there collection toward the eastern countries in the birth of Russian Rock. Inspired by the looks of the singer Eugene Hutz of the group Gogol Bordello, Frida Giannini for Gucci finds its roots in the theatric and avant-guard culture of post-Revolution Russia. A brilliant collection but an impression of Gucci déjà-vu…

This is a new post by David Report contributor Olivier Rohrbach.

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Wallpaper Design Awards 2008

David Carlson, 12 January, 2008

The Wallpaper magazine is maybe not as ground-braking as in the early days when Tyler Brule was behind the steering-wheel. With more than ten years in the hotspot of global design Wallpaper has got a lot of competitors when it comes to navigation for contemporary lifestyle. However the Wallpaper Design Awards always brings forward some high qualitative winners in most of the categories. The winners of the Wallpaper Design Awards 2008 were not an exception. One objection though is the big number of categories, 63 to be exact…

Among the winners:

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Best new restaurant: Mattias Dahlgren, Stockholm

Mathias Dahlgren’s restaurant at the Grand Hôtel Stockholm with interior design by Ilse Crawford.

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Best public building: New Museum, New York

The New Museum is New York’s only museum devoted entirely to contemporary art and it owes its cutting-edge new home in the Bowery district to Tokyo-based architects SANAA.

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Best Fashion: Jil Sander A/W 2007 by Raf Simons

Free from superfluous detail, the architectural shapes and the modernity of the fabrics made for an outstanding collection.

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Best furniture designer: Tokujin Yoshioka

An apprentice to Shiro Kuramata and Issey Miyake, Yoshioka set up on his own in 2000. He’s behind the Issey Miyake shop in Tokyo, as well as exhibition space for Miyake, Hermès, Muji and Peugeot.

Go for the full list of the Wallpaper Design Awards here.

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World’s best concept stores

David Carlson, 30 December, 2007

The on-line resource luxuryculture.com with the vision “sharing the art of living well” brings in their latest issue forward 16 of the world’s best concept stores. Among familiar ones like Milan’s Corso Como and Paris’ Colette you can read about the cool Restir shop in Tokyo and The Corner in Berlin. Don’t forget to check them out next time you are on a road trip. Below are a few more of their top pics. Now I’m just waiting for them to list Carlson Ahnell in Skanör/Sweden next year…

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Five green in Dubai

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Pool in Munich

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Via Garibaldi 12 in Genova

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Categories: Design, Fashion, Trends

Luxury redefined

David Carlson, 8 November, 2007

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Spring 2008 will see the launch of a new joint-branded John Smedley/Better Thinking Luxury Redefined t-shirt. Made in Derbyshire from organic, fairtrade, extra-long staple Peruvian cotton with an exceptionally low water footprint – the Luxury Redefined concept takes sustainable design and communication to a new level. Supported by a product brochure and web site that tell the story through beautiful, evocative photography, the t-shirt combines the ultimate in luxury with the ultimate in sustainability.

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Better thinking ltd – a sustainable strategy, design and communications consultancy – has considered every aspect of the t-shirt’s environmental and social impacts since initiating the project in October 2005. Mike Betts, better thinking Director, sees the launch as a milestone in sustainable product development. “The Luxury Redefined t-shirt will help to define the sustainable luxury sector. It’s the first time that the full story of a sustainable product has been shared with consumers, not just by documenting the problems, but by showing in a concise and engaging way how we have found the solutions to these challenges.”

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Dawne Stubbs, John Smedley’s brand manager adds “It was clear from the first time we spoke with better thinking ltd that we shared the same values around craftsmanship and innovation – and a passion to create a sustainable product without compromising quality in any way”.

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T-shirts in the post

David Carlson, 22 September, 2007

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T-post offers you to subscribe to cool T-shirts. Once you sign up a package will arrive every six weeks. It’s almost like having a subscription to a magazine. All T-shirts from T-post have a design based on a current news item. This topic is always printed on the inside inside.

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Categories: Design, Fashion, Lifestyle

Luxury fashion by KR LT STUDIO from Lithuania

David Carlson, 5 September, 2007

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KR LT STUDIO is a brand new Lithuanian luxury fashion brand that recently has launched a collection of handmade linen lounging robes, introducing a new style of dressing for the home. KR LT STUDIO uses the culture, traditions and beauty of their homeland as inspiration to create items and spaces for modern day living. The studio takes its name from the first initials of the principal designers, Kristina and Renata, and the country code for Lithuania.

Kristina, a trend forecaster, was raised in Adelaide, Australia. Renata is a linen designer and part of the diplomatic community in Lithuania. Kristina’s exposure to global consumer trends and cultural knowledge leads her to bring the experiential and forward looking aspects of design to the projects; while Renata brings the traditional design understanding, sensibility and background.

I got some words from Kristina Dryzaite about their company; “KR LT STUDIO is purely about a Lithuanian aesthetic/interpretation of the world. I care about meaningful connections, curious dialogues, intuitive designs and want to create products that express the greater connections of life. For 2007 we have sought to design something beautiful that can help create space in our minds, as well as our external world. A product that shows an appreciation and enjoyment of the beauty of life; that lets its wearer inhale life in slow motion…”.

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I believe very much in exploring local and regional values as I have earlier been writing about in my David Report bulletin called Supreme Regionalism. We need something else than the smoothed-out and standardized global style.

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Categories: Fashion, Lifestyle, Trends
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