Precise and conceptual, the first womenswear collection designed by Masataka Matsumura for Giuliano Fujiwara leaves no space for casualness: it looks deeply rooted in  the ancient Japanese tradition of origami, whose key elements are interpreted through a contemporary and personal vision. Expert cross contaminations between eastern sensitivity and western culture turn this first ladies collection into the full and coherent expression of the brand’s evolution, as well as of the young creative director’s personal training.

The collection is extremely focused: it includes 20 ready to wear items , 7 shoes styles, 9 bags styles and 8 jewellery pieces.

As in the origami, the volumes of each garment are unusual, with extremely structured cuts and pleats that help defining them with precision and geometric rigour: at times strips of fabric line the skirts, strips of leather extend the shoes silhouette, as if they still had to be folded to turn into the actual items women will wear. Proportions meet and cross, in a harmonious alternation of opposites, tiny skirts are worn over extra long jumpers, whose hems sneak out of the skirts that, in this way, look like belts at a first glimpse. The focus is on the shoulders, important, geometric, often enhanced thanks to the addition of pleats.

Knitwear is super soft and feminine, thus contrasting openly with the rigorous silhouettes of the outerwear. In the materials range, technical fabrics with a thick and consistent texture, wool crêpre, leather and a very light silk/cashmere blend are outstanding.

Accessories, following an unusual creative path, are not perceived as a mere complement, but rather as  central elements of utmost importance, around which the whole womenswear project rotates: the origami concept blooms in the bags collection and develops through the shoes collection, where pleats and overlappings give shape and structure to each and every item, and includes also the jewellery collection, where metal is folded to contain extra bright and extra big crystals.

The colour palette is essential, and perfectly in tune with the brand’s philosophy: only black and dusty pink for the clothing line, for the accessories black is mixed with a light shade of grey and a warm champagne tone.

From manga to anime to music, Japanese soft power, also known as “Cool Japan,” has captured the world’s attention. In the fashion world as well, the profound creativity of Japanese products has great potential on the international market. As a way of broadcasting Japanese fashion culture to the rest of the world, the government supports the Japan Fashion Week in Tokyo (JFW). Now in addition, tokyoeye has been established to further strengthen Japanese fashion businesses in the world’s fashion capitals.

tokyoeye is a project for supporting Japanese fashion brands in their expansion outside Japan. Taking “Cool Japan” and filtering it through a Tokyo perspective, several fresh, modern Japanese fashion brands have been selected for exhibition in either Paris or Shanghai. In cooperation with local showrooms and press, they will have the opportunity to appeal directly to buyers, press, and consumers.

The goal is to support brands with potential that are planning to extend their business overseas.

Together with a showroom in Paris and industry press, creators will have the opportunity to show their collections directly to professional buyers, to the public and to the press. Several brands already successful in Japan have been chosen by the selection committee.

Two commercial events are scheduled : the “corner” of Colette from February 15th to 27th, 2010 and TRANOÏ SHOWROOM from March 4th to 11th, 2010.

While flowers assorted our most important moment in life: from birth and romance to marriage and procreating, there is only one comparable modern-day object that mystically embodies the same symbolism: scented candles. In a noisy world where a new awareness is arising, scented candles have become a companion in our most fulfilling and luxurious quest: stillness and calm.

Calming Park presents from February 5th – 20th 2010 the exhibition “Art & Candle” at Holm, Zürich. A selection of CALMING PARK candles will be available for purchase in the boutique. The work of seven internationally renomated artists, reveals how the stillness and calm of scented candles meet luxury, fashion, music, spirituality, graphic and visual arts.

The first product released in the series is “Dark Pepper” by Bruno Pieters. It’s a more peppery version of “Amber- Pepper”, the first candle he designed for the CALMING PARK collection unveiled in Milan in October 2009 at “10 Corso Como” during the 2010 spring/summer fashion week. True to Bruno Pieters’ style, “Dark Pepper” is a chic and minimalist candle wrapped in black glass, whose scent is inspired by his favourite Men’s eau de toilette.

The other artists involved in “Art & Candle” are Arielle Dombasle, OeO, Sabina Sciubba, Kristina Dryza (you know her as contributor to this blog!), Bruno Peinado and Agi Simoes.

Sabina Sciubba has put together a project where the candle becomes the point of collision between music and video. In the song “So Close And Yet So Far”, the dim light of a Calming Park candle accompanies her guitar performance. Sabina Sciubba has taken this opportunity to reveal that she is a true fan of the SPA De Provence CALMING PARK candle.

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Natacha Marro has created these fabulous Mary Jane ‘heal-less’ liquid red glitter shoes exclusively for online shop 20ltd.com.

Natacha Marro grew up in Nice before moving to London to study at the world renowned Cordwainers College. After serving a traditional apprenticeship she opened her first shop in South London in 2000. Over the last 14 years she has created her own unmistakeable style (her work is proof of her motto: ‘anything is possible’) that is mandatory wear for the world’s most flamboyant dressers. Her client list includes David Bowie, Gwen Stefani, Goldfrapp, Daphne Guinness, Grace Jones, Girls Aloud, Olivia Newton John and Grayson Perry. Her reputation became truly galactic when she was asked to design Luke Skywalker and Obi One’s shoes in the latest Star Wars films.

Handmade to order. Only 10 pairs will ever be made. Delivery Time is two weeks so you better hurry up of you want them for your New Years Eve party!

The scented candle collection Calming Park is welcoming a new fragrance, « Amber - Pepper » a stunning mix exclusively put together by bruno Pieters.

A black wrapping, suggestive of the finest of nappa leather, lacquered black glass with a glossy shine and black wax finish off the look of the first perfumed candle by designer bruno Pieters. Whose creations are worn by a-listers such as Lady Gaga, Roisin Murphy, Jake Sheers and Diane Kruger

For his first scent, bruno Pieters has given the amber-pepper fragrance a spicy boost through the distinguished notes of black pepper and cumin, whereas the most refreshing notes come from bergamot, pepper leaves and Madagascar pepper. The amber-pepper mix owes its most-defining bouquet to the gentle woody/leathery scent of patchouli, cedarwood, leather, and the amber note of tonka bean and white musk.

« Amber - Pepper » is available from November 2009 as limited edition at selected  bruno Pieters point of sales and by selected Calming Park stockists. Calming Park scented candles are made in Grasse, France, the world capital of perfume. They are made of organic palm wax and paraffin with a 12% perfume concentration. The founder of Calming Park, Olivier Rohrbach, is also a contributor every now and then here at David Report.

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The White Briefs is a brand new range of compelling everyday items with vital generosity and a honest sensitivity. After trying to find a well-balanced product in the landscape of aestheticism, function and understated commercialism the founders of The White Briefs found nothing. “The White Briefs vision is clear, to meet the customers with a new range of compelling everyday items,” says Peter Simonsson, one of the founders and Creative Director of The White Briefs. “The hybridism of underwear and casual wear makes sense in our own way. We aim to invigorate the perception of the business.”

The White Briefs takes social and environmental responsibility and delivers a high quality product in all aspects. Organic farming is a production method that not only respects human health and the environment, but is also a model of sustainable development, that improves the quality of the resources of local communities, helping them face global competition.

“For me it all started with the wish to create the ultimate pair of briefs, pure, white and in a high quality organic cotton.” says Peter Simonsson. “It’s also the reason why we developed “other briefs” such as: T-shirts, baggy jersey pants, kimonos, long singlet and panties.” And more is to be expected.

The White Briefs’ HQ is located in the surroundings of the breathtaking landscape of Österlen, an area from which the founder and creative director Peter Simonsson also origins. For The White Briefs, humanity, quality and 360 degrees of new thinking solutions are the key ingredients. The White Briefs uses ICEA certificated fabrics.

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The ninth issue of Acne Paper addresses the dual themes of Art and Spirituality, and explores the relationship between these two inextricably linked areas of study.

The cover story sees a unique collaboration between Tilda Swinton and Paolo Roversi. Other collaborators include David Lynch, Marina Abramovic and Maureen Paley, and an extensive art portfolio is curated by Lisa Rovner and Neville Wakefield.

Starting with 2006, the Romanian avant-garde fashion label Rozalb de Mura, is rediscovering fresh moments from the past, that he sets in utterly contemporary contexts, unflinchingly mixing real and imaginary characters, coolly playing with time and space. Moreover, the Rozalb de Mura label is developing as a multidisciplinary platform that commissions and supports unexpected and exciting collaborations with visual artists, musicians and writers

Outstanding performers such as Patrick Wolf, Roisin Murphy or Mikhail Karikis wear its sophisticated mixture of masculine and feminine cuts; influential magazines the likes of Dazed and Confused, CRASH, Double or British Vogue feature its sharp style and intriguing stories. It’s no wonder young label Rozalb de Mura is gaining a cult status in Europe. After a series of events in Vienna, Berlin, Seoul and Beijing, the last three seasons saw Rozalb de Mura’s collections within the prestigious OnIOff, London Fashion Week.

If you are in Stockholm, The Romanian Cultural Institute has a “Double Game” talk about cutting-edge fashion label Rozalb de Mura and interior design duo Liste Noire and their special interest in fashion storytelling and emotional interior design. The event will take place on October 22, 6.30 PM at Skeppsbron 20 in Stockholm.

On 25th September, H&M kicked off with the natural brand extension for a retailer: To jump from apparel to home textile and accessories.

However, instead of creating “yet another H&M to dress your HoMe” - i.e. ZARA home - they went for a risky brand reinforcement via a pantone-inspired and impressively cool showroom installed in their space in central Stockholm.

Climb upstairs and scan through the planned shows for the season, to you get a metallic palette.

Explore the open space where things are displayed in a art gallery-like manner and stick magnetic colors (one for each item to purchase) to your card.

Sold out item? No magnets left.

Changed your mind? Just leave the no-longer-wanted in the magnet parking.

Craving for more? Address to the color library that contains anything available though not present in the first show.

Don’t forget to drop by… Pay and get your stuff!

Home reflections is the first show called. I agree. There’s a lot to reflect on how this brand new experience of interior design moves a step beyond, from the familiar ikea-like environment, to a creative environment, where the customer becomes both critic and creator of his own oeuvre.

This is a post by the David Report contributor Claudia Muñiz García.

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In October 2009 Artek and Comme des Garçons will launch their joint creation, the STANDARD fragrance. The name derives from Artek’s standard thinking, based on Alvar Aalto’s original idea of systems and standards in furniture design.

The unisex fragrance was created in line with Artek STUDIO’s brief on combining synthetic and natural elements. The final scent was developed by Christian Astuguevieille, perfume creator at Comme des Garçons. The result is a blend of Finnish Labrador Tea, Twinflower Linnea Borealis, metal and rust in the base notes and fennel, ginger, lemon, musk, saffron and cedarwood in the top notes. The visual aesthetics of the STANDARD fragrance were developed to stand along with Artek’s ideology and existing products. In line with Artek’s design ideology, the scent is created with the ambition to nourish physical and emotional wellbeing.

The fragrance concept was conceived in the pleasant atmosphere of the first collaboration between Artek and Comme des Garçons in 2007, an Artek exhibition of ’second-cycle’ furniture at Dover Street Market London and Comme des Garçons’ main flagship store in Tokyo. Artek is continuously on the lookout for new and interesting working methods, materials and collaborations. Creating a fragrance with Comme des Garçons was for Artek a great opportunity to work with a company in the forefront of cultural reinvention. The launch of the STANDARD fragrance is one of the key events in Artek’s 75th anniversary celebrations.

”To be trendy has never been an end in itself for Artek. The world of senses is always interesting and that was reason enough for us to get involved in the project. Comme des Garçons and Artek are both exceptional companies that have the audacity to operate in fields that are not necessarily intrinsic parts of their business. The STANDARD fragrance is in itself a unique phenomenon. It communicates a message about what Artek stands for today; being radical,” says Mirkku Kullberg, Managing Director of Artek.

“I guess the greatest similarity between Comme des Garçons and Artek is that we both have a strong vision and belief in creativity that does not lend itself to compromise,” says Adrian Joffe, President of Comme des Garçons Parfum. “We believe such collaborations create a synergy where the result is greater than the sum of its parts.” Comme des Garçons is known for its experimental approach in everything it does, continuously creating things that did not exist before. “We like to question the notion of what is luxury,” concludes Joffe.

STANDARD will be launched in London at Dover Street Market on October 15. The fragrance will be distributed through Artek’s and Comme des Garçons’ own stores as well as Comme des Garçons resellers.

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